Christian Dior ready to wear 2014-15

The pictures from the Christian Dior ready to wear show just came in and I must say I was really disappointed. Raf Simons presented a rather unconvincing collection with a lot of laced up pieces which would have looked nice if they weren’t laced up with thick shoe laces. No, I am not kidding. The shoe laces look cheap either on the Kermit green coat or on the brown dress. The biased coat sleeves are nice, elegant and add a couture look to the piece but very unpractical under frigid temperatures.00470h_1280x1920 00290h_1280x1920

Mr. Simons should rethink his vision of dresses as he sent down the runway some very bulky ones which look made out of a down blanket and don’t really do much for the silhouette. If they are fattening on a tall and skinny model, just imagine what we would look like in them.

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Other dresses are hanging loose on bodys, not doing anything for the silhouette. Is Mr. Simmons going back to his sportswear roots? Probably. But as Karl Lagerfeld sent down the runway elegant and body fitting silhouettes paired with sparkly sneakers for Chanel Haute Couture collection a few weeks ago, the sparkly potato bag looking dresses do not really convince me.

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And the color associations seen on some cocktail gowns are not really working either as Raf Simons seams to stick to colour blocking. Not everyone can master the art of color mixing as did with virtuoso Yves Saint Laurent or Christian Lacroix. 00180h_1280x1920 00200h_1280x1920 00210h_1280x1920

But there was some nice pieces though, like the very tailored double breasted jackets wearer with flirty mini skirts.00250h_1280x1920

Or some nice black dresses. The shoes were resumed to the same pair of wedged sandal declined in a variation of 3 color blocks, again… Not very wintery either, especially with the tiny peep toe.

00300h_1280x1920I really don’t know what Mr Arnaud was thinking when he hired Raf Simons for Christian Dior when someone as talented as Olivier Theyskens would have done wonders to the couture house.

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Charlotte Rampling as the new face of NARS

Since its creation twenty years ago, the Canadian cosmetic firm has always taken some unconventional beauties as ambassadors for the brand. We all remember the first and very controversial Ru Paul add.

RuPaul face of mac

Or the one with a very painted and I must say quite disturbing Marc Jacobs on it.

narsWell, for its 20th birthday, Nars went for a more classical beauty but true to its culture, broke the common beauty law by choosing Charlotte Rampling, a 68 year old actress. But Rampling is no random actress and since her debuts as a model, has always been praised for her looks, androgynous silhouette and style.

This are some of her first shots as a modelrampling2

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Her breaking role was playing a german stripper in the movie “The night porter”, showing off her “birkinesque” body long before breast implants were invented. And yes gents, being flat sheeted can be sexy and yes, this must be a British thing.

As a lot of actresses or models, she took a shot at singing but had the wisdom to get back to movies. She played in a Woody Allen movie, “stardust Memories” and her slightly drooping eye lids give her a very steamy and unsettling sex appeal. We all remember her in “Swimming Pool” next to a lolita Ludivine Sagnier.

She got a recurring role in Dexter as Doctor Evelyn Vogel and I loved her in the latest François Ozon film, “Jeune et Jolie” though I was very disappointed by the movie.

Always on the best dressed list, she embraces her age with grace and always makes an impression on red carpets and in glossy editorials.

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NARS, I am so glad that your vision of beauty goes beyond the usual vision of cosmetic brands which take 15 year old girl to cell anti ageing cream. I will even switch from my regular Chanel lipsticks to one of yours. The matt ones seam pretty awe some.

So, please meet Mrs. Charlotte Rampling, new face of NARS. True beauty and style never go outdated.

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“The Oscars? A bubble of 1950s Barbie clothes”, said Tom Ford

As we are all taking bets as who’s going to wear what this coming Sunday for the 86th Academy Awards ceremony, a.k.a. the Oscars, Tom Ford kind of bashed the whole thing down yesterday on Jimmy Kimmel.

hbz-tom-ford-article-93294321-smThe too gorgeous to be straight (dam it!) designer who in the 90’s turned a rather dormant Gucci company into the hottest clothes on the runway and made porn finally chic, revealed that he would only agree to dress one actress, guessing Julianne Moore, for the big night, finding the whole process rather “uncreative”. What would sound like obnoxious in the mouth of anyone else than Mr. Ford made actually sense for this self described “commercial” designer who qualify the red carpet looks as “a bubble of 1950s Barbie clothes.”

The best quote from Tom Ford is when asked if he would go to the supermarket in sweat pants and crocs is” Sweat pants, no. Tee shirt, yes. Crocodile boots, yes.” Tom, I love you.

To get the whole interview of Tom Ford by Jimmy Kimmel, which went viral within hours, just click on the link below

Balenciaga FW 2014-15 by Alexander Wang

The marathon of fashion weeks is well on his way. After the Paris Haute Couture, NYC fashion week, London and Milan, it is time for the most expected one, the Paris Fashion Week.

After closing his eponymous show in NYC a few days ago, Alexander Wang showed his first and very much anticipated collection for Balenciaga, taking over the parisian couture house after Nicolas Ghesquière move over to Louis Vuitton after Marc Jacobs ‘s departure. Are you still following??? Yes,looks like a fashion world’s merry go round.

So, very much anticipated ans I said but a little disappointing. Wang presented a monochromatic collection, very much in the Cristobal legacy with superb tailoring and luxurious fabrics. The scalloped peplum trousers are gorgeous and will look as good on skinny models as on civilians with a little belly. Some beautiful white dresses with razor sharp architecture too.

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But the down side of a monochromatic collection is that it lacks the “wow” factor of a rich coloured silhouette coming down the runway.  Not that I would trot down the streets looking like a rainbow unicorn but a little winter colours can’t do no wrong. And by the way, I didn’t like the shoes. The boots look heavy and too masculin while the stilettos and sandals are too toes revealing to be sexy. The whole collection look elegant but safe, cohesive but not daring. A collection targeted for a NYC clientele where black is king.

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In a word, nice debut but I prefer Ghesquière vision, for now that is… And I cannot wait to see what Mr. Ghesquière has envisioned for his Louis Vuitton premiere.

OH, and by the way, someone should tell the blond woman on the front row to get a manucure BEFORE the show, not during the show, or at least no seat at the front row. I don’t know who she is but I can do a better job than her…

To see the whole BAlenciaga FW 2013-14 collection click on the link below.

MACO Mexico DF 2014

Yesterday, the very much expected contemporary art exhibit, MACO, opened its doors at the Banamex center and, as usual, the art presented was really worth the traffic to get there.

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First, I was kind of unimpressed, strolling in my Repetto kitty heels through the alleys, looking like the old new yorker in me. But suddenly, the art got more appealing, at least to me as I spotted some Anish Kapoor, some new artists which pieces made me smile.

 

Shadow V
Artist: Anish Kapoor

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And suddenly, my eye got caught by some brightly coloured large scale pictures. It was him again, finally our paths had crossed again…I entered the booth with a big grin on my mind, recognising which seduced me a few years ago in a West Broadway gallery. Liu Bolin and his invisible man work.

Do get me wrong, I am not at all an art specialist, specially not contemporary art. I know my way around a Picasso and Basquiat but that is pretty much it. But I have a spookily efficient visual memory , if interested that is, and a soft spot for art. So I had the weird feeling of reuniting with an old friend as I browsed through Bolin’s work.

Here’s the first picture of his work I ever saw and I found it brilliant. It is called “Hiding the city, puffed food”. I couldn’t get it at first and  it was like gazing through the fog but he finally appeared. His feet gave him away.

 

Hiding in the City – Puffed Food
Artist: Liu Bolin

 

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Then when I saw this one, I couldn’t but think of my friend Alexandra Bottrie, rock hard Lanvin devotee which she wears so majestically. And this piece is one of there few where Bolin doesn’t appear, we have Mr Albert Elbaz instead.

Alber Elbaz for Lanvin
Artist: Liu Bolin

liu_bolin_alber_elbaz_for_lanvin_photograph_2011Intrigued, I contacted the gallery asking for the Lanvin one price and you know what? One of the good things about ageing is that price tags don’t seam as monstrous as they did a few years ago. I remember gasping when I asked the Soho gallery owner for the “Puffed food” and yesterday I merely blinked when I learnt it was $26K. I mean, it is still a hefty price but well… It is nice, isn’t it?

Another artist’s work from the RG ART gallery which put a smile on my face was Manuel Mérida big rotating circles. Just like a glass hour, pigments fall from the upper part of the circle through the lower in a fascinating rotating movement. A message telling us that we are wasting away the planet ressources? I have really no idea and do not wish to make a fool of myself by lecturing you about supposed artist’s message but I like art that intrigue me and put a smile on my face, as simple as this.

 

Cercle Rose Tyrien
Artist: Manuel Mérida

manuel-merida---cercle-rose-tyrien---120---2011---rgr+art

 

Cercle Bleu Outremer
Artist: Manuel Mérida

manuel-merida---cercle-bleu-outremer---160-----2012---rgr+art And these sculptures by Rafael Barrios were really impressive as they looked in 3D while they where completely and utterly flat. Their simple and slightly childish look which reminded me of my kids construction blocks just made then even more pleasant.

 

Maroma
Artista: Rafael Barrios

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To learn more about the artists represented by RG ART GALLERY go to http://rgrart.com

Too bad I did’t had enough time to really take it all in but there are some very good art represented and if you are in the DF, you should definitely get out, defy the traffic and go make your own opinion.

 

 

50 famous quotes by fashion Icons

Fashion weeks are never really over in the fashion world since they seam to unravel one after the other in a well season cycle. New York, Paris, Milan, they all are the theatre of new trends, new silhouettes, new hairdos and make up trends.

But style lies between the gimmicks of fashionista and trend followers. I just came across this Harper Bazaar online article by Sarah Lindig selecting the 50 most famous quotes from fashion icons. I am not quite convinced that Lady Gaga can qualify as a Fashion Icon, nor by her  quote ““And now, I’m just trying to change the world, one sequin at a time.”

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Chanel and Saint Laurent are true master of elegance and imprinted in their collections this indefinable “allure” so envied to chic parisians.

“Fashions fade, style is eternal.” —Yves Saint Laurent

“A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future.” —Coco Chanel

I have a soft spot for Manolo Blahnik’s one, “Men tell me that I’ve saved their marriages. It costs them a fortune in shoes, but it’s cheaper than a divorce. So I’m still useful, you see”

To read more of this delectable quotes, go to 50 Famous Quotes from Fashion Icons – Famous Fashion Quotes – Harper’s BAZAAR Magazine